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First print completely deformed


vpersiani
(@vpersiani)
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Hello,

Yesterday I received my ender 3V2 and started to assemble it.

As I have been building RC models for 20 years, always been doing a lot of DIY and was as well watching videos to assemble this 3d printer, I am rather confident that it is quite properly assembled, even if there is always a chance that I messed up somewhere.

After final check-up and careful bed leveling (this is my second 3D printer) I launched a print of the provided maze model. On a side note, I was really disappointed by the loud fans but apart from that the print was looking quite good, not to say impressive (compared to my 1st M3D printer) looking at it from the top as you can see in the attached 1st picture.

But once the print was finished and I removed it (easily!) from the bed... OMG. As you can see in the next 2 pictures, it is completely bent from both sides! As it the glass bed was not flat which of course is not the case. 

So that was it for my day last night and I went to bed wondering what could cause such a good printer to perform so poorly.

I was using the provided filament sample which I assumed to be PLA (nothing written) and did not have any proper coil to put it on so I just hang it like this on the filament support. And this morning I noticed that the filament was tangled! Could it be the (only) reason for such a deformed print? Can you think of any other item / parameter that I should check?

Thanks in advance for your help!

 

Vincent

 

Note: apparently I can add only one picture so I will put the deformed one


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vpersiani
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First picture was perpendicular to X axis, next one is perpendicular to Y axis


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vpersiani
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And top view which I find quite nice!


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3nderUser
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It is warped.. When printing hot layers on each other, the cooling down material shrinks and wants to pull the edges from the bed. Normally good bed adhesion prevents that from happening.


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vpersiani
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@3nderuser Thanks for this video.

So if I try to to summarize what I should do:

-check, check and re-check that the bed is level (I did do it carefully before printing but when I checked after the print there was a really big difference between front and rear. maybe 2 full turns of the wheels)

-avoid any draft around the printer. As the printer was in the middle of the room, no aircon, door closed I would expect no draft

-may be reduce bed temperature. I used the default setting at 60°C, I might try 55° or even 50°?

-does it make sense to also reduce slightly nozzle temperature? Default setting for PLA is at 200°C?

-reduce printing speed for lower layers but I am not clear where to define that. Is it in the slicer software? Would it not be already defined in the default settings?

-in the video there is also a mention about glue sticks but I am unclear what this could be. I will need to do a bit of googling.

-regarding my tangled filament, I will get it sorted but apparently this would not be linked to the warping if I understand correctly.

Thanks for the help


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3nderUser
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@vpersiani 

-I believe your bed was well leveled as it printed the whole first layer without problem. Observe your printer doing the first lines squishing the plastic slightly to the bed.
- To keep your bed good levelled I would print these as first. It was one of my first prints and it works so well, you won't regret it  ? 
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4791441

-For temperatures, I always start with bed at 75 and nozzle 210 for PLA.. The next layers I lower that to 65 - 60 and 202 -195 depending the brand of PLA. Never had issues with adhesion. 50 - 55 is really low in my opinion. The video was only for explaining warping, I think everybody has their own method.
-Be sure your building plate is really clean, simply washed with dish soap and rinsed with hot water. Then you don't need silly things like glue stick or tape. 
I always used default speed settings and never had problems with it. I also prefere the back side of the building plate as it gives a nicer finish on the bottom of your prints.
Just print your first layer at high temp as it wil bake the plastic onto the surface, and then lower the  temps in next layers.
I hope this will help you 
(im going to print the maze too to compare 🙂 )


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vpersiani
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@3nderuser

Thanks a lot for those detailed explanations!

-regarding potential bed level change during the print, I put some stickers on the wheel and could see that the wheels did not move. I will probably print those nice locks but this is not the first priority.

-for temperature and speed adjustment for the first layers, I was looking for a way to define this in the slicing software but I realized that it is probably manual adjustment during the print since I can pause the print and modify parameters (not used to such advanced features with my basic M3D printer). 

-building plate cleanliness: In fact I completely overlooked this one as the first print was done with no cleaning at all!

Let's jump to the conclusion: I printed a second time, slicing the model by myself, adding a brim, doing the level once the plate was hot (but still not cleaned as it was before reading your last answer) and the result was way better! See picture

 

Thanks


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vpersiani
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Then here comes my 3rd print, my own design for a simple box, plate has been cleaned finally, slicing done with a brim and after the first layer I could already see that bed adhesion was not that good.

Final result is acceptable but I hope to be able to do much better soon, especially using your advice about modifying temperature for first layer.

I will keep you posted!


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vpersiani
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Here is the finished box


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3nderUser
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@vpersiani Good to see progress in your print ? 

What slicer are you using?
The brim should be a solid layer, not separate lines. So I think your levelled a bit to far from the bed.
Printed the maze to check advised temps. bed was 70 first layer and 60 for rest of the print. Nozzle 210 - 202 - 196 for first 3 layers.
Skirt are 2 lines, that is how your brim should look like. Lines squished together as a single line/surface

 


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vpersiani
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Thanks for the encouraging feedback!

For bed leveling, what I do is that I put a sheet of paper between the bed and the nozzle, push the bed up until I can not pull anymore the sheet and then lower the bed by about 1/4 of turn of the wheel. Do you think that I should lower the bed less than 1/4 of turn?

Regarding the slicer, I used either Cura or the one that comes with the printer "Creality Slicer" which seems to be just a re-branded version of Cura

Your maze looks really great! And you even got the right size of ball to fit inside ? 

By the way how do you add pictures directly in your post, not as an attached file?

 

Vincent

 


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vpersiani
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I just launched a new print, adjusting temperature before starting to print and... the settings I manually defined were erased by the "standard" ones ? or probably the ones in my g-code

So I did a bit of reading and found out that in Cura, by enabling "advanced settings" I can define specific nozzle and plate temperature for the initial layer ? 

Is it the way you are doing it?

Otherwise, when we pause a print and go into the "tune" menu, is there a way keep those "tuned" settings when we resume printing?


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3nderUser
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Posted by: @vpersiani

So I did a bit of reading and found out that in Cura, by enabling "advanced settings" I can define specific nozzle and plate temperature for the initial layer ? 

Is it the way you are doing it?

Otherwise, when we pause a print and go into the "tune" menu, is there a way keep those "tuned" settings when we resume printing?

Yes, temperature settings are done in slicer, it's unusual to pause a print. When you want to change filament for different color during the print then you can use pause.
I upload my pictures to imgur.com and place the link of picture here in message, then it shows directly. Some slicers let you only control first layer temp. I used IdeaMaker for the maze, it gives control over every layer you want.

But I don't have a preferred slicer, also use Cura and PrusaSlicer.


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