Precisely how does one add the ability to manually level the bed to the latest stable Marlin firmware for an Ender 3 v2? I see things about editing configuration files and what not, but I cannot find the exact instructions as far as where to find the files to edit, so on and so forth.
@1macgeek https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J9vxJT5Tgh4&t=342s You need this.
Background:
I have an Ender 3 V2 (4.2.2 Board) with lots of modifications.
I’m running the latest Jyers/Marlin/releases/download/v1.3.5/E3V2-BLTouch-5×5-v4.2.2-v1.3.5.bin
I’m having two issues that I can’t seem to resolve:
1. Added a Z-stop based switch for the filament runout sensor.
– I have yet been able to make this work. I double checked the wiring & where it’s plugged in; everything seems ok.
Issue: The sensor switch is working in reverse: Filament through the sensor – Runout detected. Remove the filament or bypass the switch – works fine.
Question: Anyone know how to ‘reverse; this, so it works when the filament is going through the switch?
2. Running the latest ‘stable’ Jyers firmware: the loaded Mesh setting do not seem to making any adjustments while printing. I’ve manually levelled the bed & re-checked it many times. Have added the 420 code to the g-code after G28. “Leveling Active” selected in the printer LCD menu, created new mesh, setting saved. Everything working so far at this point.
I tried both the latest versions of the Cura & Prusa Slicers (modified g-code in both). Slices fine, save to MMC card, start print…
Mesh Leveling does not seem to be running. If anything it almost seems like it’s applying in reverse(???!!!), making the z-offset greater, not lesser; as if it’s adding the mesh to the height, not detracting it; or perhaps it’s not working at all…
I even ran the auto leveling without the glass on the bed, just in case my glass was warped but nope, it’s the actual aluminum heat plate that’s warped (minorly) on one side.
Almost ready to go back to Crealitiy’s latest official build and try that, but I do like the new menuing and features in the Jyers build; Just wish it would work as intended.
I know I’m not alone with the BLTouch (V 3.1) mesh not applying to the print issue.
Has anyone encountered either of these issues, and figured out a fix?
Any help would be GREATLY appreciated!
Thanks for reading! 🙂
Hi Steve. This z based switch what does it look like? You can invert the input to the main board electrically using a switch that has open and closed contacts in it. If you can find one that fits your current switch holder you can move between contacts and get your results. On my version of marlin there’s a menu that gives you an setting to work either way. I can also say Jyers stuff is cool but shouldn’t you post there? In discussions on GitHub page?
also you could wire a DPDT relay but that’s another adventure all together. Good luck!!
Thanks for the detailed article on this topic. I would like to see more such awesome articles from you.
Very nice post here thanks for it….
yes,Really great efforts.Keep up good work!
