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Nothing but problems


really
(@really)
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I've leveled the bed until I'm sick of screwing with it. Can't get any print to stick to the glass bed plate. It's been cleaned with ipa 91% and 95%. I've been through all the settings multiple times. Does not matter what I do or how I do it prints always fail! I'm currently using Ender Series PLA. Red which is really Orange, Black and Blue with no luck at all. I've ordered Hatchbox PLA. But honestly I have no faith in that fixing the issue. I'm at the end of my rope with this POS. I've looked at feed rates, thickness, fan speeds, pouring over settings. No matter what I do nothing changes.  


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Lemmiwinks
(@lemmiwinks)
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It is probably the bed level. I have been struggling to stick my prints to the bed and I had no clue what is going on, because every time I would adjust the bed level I would find that my prints are not sticking to the bed. In the link bellow you will find a video of how to adjusting ender 3 v2 printer and it worked great for me! Give it a try if you have not done it yet.


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mrrstrat
(@mrrstrat)
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This looks like good advice - I am waiting on my CR auto level kit for my Ender 3 V2 so I am taking the time to learn manual leveling. I have had the printer for three days now.

I made the Creality cat print, and a nice hi-res Benchy. I did some other trials parts from STL finder and that's when it started failing to stick. Turns out messing with the bed was needed after about 10 hours of printing. Nothing would stick and ended up going thru the David Vine Ender 3 V2 unboxing and assembly video and re-did it many times experimenting with different levels of pinch with the paper. But the center of the bed would always be much more pinch than the edges!

I also have 5 1kilo reels of various Creality brand PLA filament I am using: this does not seem to be my problem.

My problem seems to be getting the first layer to stick good and while I was on my 5th failed print I started messing with the TUNE options and tried 0.60 on the Z axis compensation. So far my prints are working but seems to confirm the tolerance must be real tight and the bed needs that Z axis compensation to handle the middle of the bed difference from the edges.

The CR auto leveler looks like it take a middle point measurement in the videos I have seen and I suspect it calculates a nice Z Axis offset for printing. 

So there is some tweaking on the printer but I can attest I have seen mine work remarkably and the trick with the stock printer looks like the bed, leveling, and the Z axis offset to compensate the middle of the bed differences. Too close and too far from the bed and the nozzle seems to not get a good fix on the glass to stick from what I can tell.

Great Video! I am going to try that next time I have a bed problem. Seems like a much better method than David Vine's method and much simpler. It also seems to address the need to get the springs as stiff as possible but also allow adjustments.

 


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