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Layer Shift, Ender 3 V2

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tundrwd
(@tundrwd)
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Based on the way it started, and has acted, it's almost certainly an overheating problem.  Maybe if you start early enough with the 4.2.2 board and keep it cool BEFORE this occurs - you may go a ways with the 4.2.2 board.

But unless you run across this thread - you won't know.  I'm positive that once the issue starts, the board is just going to continue to fail.

Mine failed at around the 15 print hours mark, and then continued to get worse, until I couldn't even print 30 minutes.  I can tell you that it's hot underneath the unit, and it simply can't push the air out.  Raising the unit on extended feet helps, and I continue to stick my hand under the unit, and the air blowing is MUCH cooler - even raising the unit 1.5 inches above the desk.  And having another fan blowing the air out from under the unit will probably help more.

I had to go with a 4.2.7 board, as the 4.2.2 board seems to be toast at this point.  It'll work - but only for 30 minutes.  Maybe that will get shorter over time.  

This does NOT appear to be a cold solder joint, but a failing component.


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Ventura_Kid
(@ventura_kid)
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Here is my happy ending too.  The replacement 4.2.7 board has been installed. It was plug and play. I have completed several long runs over 10 hours long. I have no issues with the level shifting anymore.  I didn't have to change any settings (except change Chinese to English). ? ? 


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tundrwd
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Posted by: @ventura_kid

Here is my happy ending too.  The replacement 4.2.7 board has been installed. It was plug and play. I have completed several long runs over 10 hours long. I have no issues with the level shifting anymore.  I didn't have to change any settings (except change Chinese to English). ? ? 

I didn't have too many issues with the board swap, a bit more difficult because I was pulling one connector/wire at a time, and putting on the new board - so took a bit longer (I took pics too, but still like to do them one at a time when I can).

yes - came up in Chinese for me too, so had to change to English.

Still running prints, but have run for about 9-10 hours so far, and now have a 13 hour print running - so we'll see how that goes.

I still highly recommend doing something to raise the unit above the table top more to allow more cooling airflow underneath.  Print some feet (I printed them AFTER raising the feet on top of a box, one per corner).  That was my 8-9 hours of printing to print those feet.


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YvonH
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Posted by: @yvonh
Posted by: @ivo-tje
Posted by: @eddowagt

The folks over at 123-3d.nl have listed some instructions to edit some settings, which would solve the issue according to them. But this sounds more like a workaround than a fix to me, should I ask them if I can order a printer with the 4.2.7 board instead of the 4.2.2 board?

The voltage adjustments is a 123-3D solution, not a Creality one (they don't come with a solution)

So you have to buy the 4.2.7 board yourself or hope the settings will work.

Guess they tested them well.

 

Suggested settings:

X-As: 1,22 volt
Y-As: 1,25 volt
Z-As: 1,22 volt
E-As: 1,39 volt

And make sure all axis run frictionless in the v-slots.

 

If someone has 4.2.2 and some time for a test.... 😉

Would changing Z and E have any effect on the layer shifting problem?  Why not just X and Y?

I will try these soon.

I just adjusted the voltages as follow.  I decided not to touch the Extruder voltage for now.

X-As: 1.24V

Y-As: 1.26V

Z-As: 1.24V

E-As: 1.08V (original value)

I will prepare a file early tomorrow morning and give it a try.

I ran some testing in the last few days and the layer shifting is always there after about 2 hours. My control box is opened, upside down, board is exposed and the fan is blowing on it. I measured the temperature and motors are running at 30C and motor drivers on the control board (4.2.2) are running at 34C.  So, there is no heat problem on my setup now but the layer shifting is still there.

I tend to agree with tundrwd above.  I looks like once the board starts failing, it is getting worse after like if there is some internal damage to some chips.  I only started seeing the problem after maybe 30 hours or so of printing spread over 2 weeks.

For the 4.2.7 board, I did not find any firmware for the Ender 3 Max.  So changing board at this point does not seem to be a solution for me unless I am missing something.

This post was modified 1 year ago by YvonH

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Demon85
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@yvonh

Well if there is no precompiled fw for the max, then the only solution is to compile one for yourself. The question is only the configuration. Maybe take what changed from a v2 4.2.2 -> 4.2.7 config, and apply to a max config. If you are lucky, it's just some obvious changes like the stepper drivers.


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YvonH
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Here is a summary of what I did and the results so far:

I am using an Ender 3 Max with controller board 4.2.2 with the control box opened and upside down to expose the control board and the cover with the fan is sitting across on top of the control box with the fan blowing air on the board.

As suggested, I adjusted the voltages as follow.  I decided not to touch the Extruder voltage for now.

  X-As: 1.24V

  Y-As: 1.26V

  Z-As: 1.24V

  E-As: 1.08V (original value)

 

I added the following at the beginning of my gcode file:

  M205 X5 Y5 Z0.1 ; Set Jerk values

  M201 X4000 Y4000 Z30 ; Set max acceleration

  M204 P600 T600 ; Set acceleration

  M203 X3000 Y3000 ; Set federate

 

I printed an estimated 4h18m part, the same as the one I printed yesterday before I change the settings.  This is a large X-Y part and it is really exercising these 2 axes.  Keep in mind that this is an Ender 3 Max which can print 300 x 300mm.  See linked photos (before and after)  (Note: time to clean my bed in the front  🙂 )

After 3 hours (not done yet), the X motor is running around 36C and the Y motor around 36C and peak at 43.5C.  The motor drivers are running at about 32C.

Before changing the settings, it took 4h13m to print.

After changing the settings as mentioned above, which sets a slower acceleration, it took 4h16m to print.  Not much longer in this case.

With the new settings, it really looks promising.  I will continue testing with these settings to see if it stays consistent.

Thanks for this suggestion.  It is giving me back hope that I can use this printer.

This post was modified 1 year ago by YvonH

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YvonH
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I tried another print job this morning with the same settings but this one did not get very far until layer shifting started to show up.

This post was modified 1 year ago by YvonH

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tundrwd
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Update:

After upgrading to the 4.2.7 board and firmware, I've not had any further X/Y axis shifts.  I've printed nearly a total of 35-36 hours total, one print being 16 hours itself, followed by another that will be nearly 8.  Only about 1.5 hours left - no shifting.  I've done several shorter prints too, ranging from 45 minutes to 2-3 hours.


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YvonH
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Thanks for the update.  At this point, it really looks like the 4.2.7 is the solution.  I printed a few other parts today and I saw a few layer shifts in all of them.  With the new settings from yesterday, it seems better than before but the problem is still there.


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tundrwd
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Posted by: @yvonh

Thanks for the update.  At this point, it really looks like the 4.2.7 is the solution.  I printed a few other parts today and I saw a few layer shifts in all of them.  With the new settings from yesterday, it seems better than before but the problem is still there.

I'm afraid that it appears that a 4.2.2 board is on borrowed time.  Once it goes bad - it's gone.


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YvonH
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I digged into the marlin's config examples but I cannot find the Ender 3 Max.  Is it using the same firmware as one of the Ender 3, 3 pro or 3v2?


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kevin
(@kevin)
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@All

Hi, friends! Creality thinks that the layer shift is caused by the electrostatic interference into the motor drive. Adding the ground wire can help to eliminate the electrostatic.

Please find attached the ground wire installation method that was provided by the Creality Tech team. Hope it helps to address the layer shift issue.


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hantuuk
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@kevin

Hi, I would have thought if earthing is the problem then the layer shifts would have been a problem from new. From new, the prints are ok, But this problem only starts after a few successful long prints and someone in this thread already mentioned, once the board has gone bad, it’s gone. 

Creality Ender 5 Pro


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Demon85
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@kevin

Thanks for the effort. But how come 4.2.7 board doesn't have this problem at all?


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tundrwd
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Posted by: @hantuuk

@kevin

Hi, I would have thought if earthing is the problem then the layer shifts would have been a problem from new. From new, the prints are ok, But this problem only starts after a few successful long prints and someone in this thread already mentioned, once the board has gone bad, it’s gone. 

Completely agree.  And if grounding is a problem - why does the 4.2.7 board fix the issue, and seemingly have no further issues?

I certainly won't say that doing all you can to ground the unit would hurt (anything that you can do will only help in the long run) - but that I do NOT believe that is the core issue.  And if grounding to alleviate static is the issue - then putting a glass bed on the Ender 3 V2 only makes the situation far, far worse.  For those who aren't aware - glass is an insulator - so static will build on TOP of the bed, and not get discharged, except possibly through the hot end while filament is being extruded on the model.

So - by all means - DO the suggestions to get good grounding - but I have seen nothing to lead me to believe that is the issue.  OR the 4.2.7 is MUCH better at dealing with static discharges over the 4.2.2 board.

 


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