@3nderuser So are you saying that the second V4.2.2 board works ok without shifting?…
I just received a replacement V4.2.2 board from Creality China when they said that they would send me a V4.2.7 board. I have complained yet again.
Creality Ender 5 Pro
@3nderuser So are you saying that the second V4.2.2 board works ok without shifting?…
I just received a replacement V4.2.2 board from Creality China when they said that they would send me a V4.2.7 board. I have complained yet again.
No.. They first shipped me an 4.2.2 board, that had same issue so it was useless..
Then I mailed Creality again saying the new 4.2.2 board has same problem and told them I already purchased the 4.2.7 because did not want to wait again for weeks.
But without reading my messages they shipped me the 4.2.7 board, wich I received today.
When you write them again, they will auto send questions about measuring things and making a video of the problem..
But if you keep mailing them they evantually will ship you a 4.2.7 board..
(at least that is how I think it goes)
Hi, I was facing this issue too. Seller do not communicate with me well. So I decided to design some better case where air can flow around drivers and then out of the case through some holes on the left side.
Got 4.2.7 mobo – installed it. Trying to install firmware, but when powered up – the display stays dark, doesn’t seem to boot at all. No Creality logo, etc. Just remains dark.
Using file named Ender-3%20v2%204.2.7mainboard%EF%BC%8832bit%EF%BC%89.zip once it downloads, downloaded from https://www.creality.com/download, link named “Ender-3 v2 4.2.7mainboard（32bit）.zip” dated 28, Jan 2021. Once the zip is unzipped, I got the file named “Ender-3 V2-Marlin-2.0.1 – V1.0.1 – TMC2225-（对应V4.2.7主板）.bin” and put it on SD card, inserted, etc.
I’ve installed/updated firmware before, so unless I’ve gotten the wrong stuff, this should be it.
HELP
“link named “Ender-3 v2 4.2.2mainboard（32bit）.zip” ? Did you copy the wrong link name? Because it would be weird to have 4.2.7 bin under the 4.2.2 link.
In that case maybe give that bin a simple file name, something definitely shorter and without chinese chars. I failed to flash the firmware once, but I don’t know what was the solution. I think I just deleted everything else from it (had a bunch of large gcode files), maybe use a different sd card, reformat..
Oh and of course because you just freshly installed this board, it could be that you got the wiring wrong, or something else
@demon85 yeah – copied the wrong link TEXT off the page. They’ve got a screwed up page which won’t allow me to “copy link”, so have to copy text instead. I noticed and edited my post.
This is a brand new card, formatted, with only that one .bin on it. Don’t know if Chinese characters are a problem – but since my display remains dark, and NOTHING comes up on it – I’m not sure how far it’s even getting, or if its even attempting to read from the card.
I have also downloaded https://secureservercdn.net/192.169.223.13/i6h.45f.myftpupload.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/10/Ender-3-V2_32bit_4.2.7_Firmware_Marlin-2.0.1_V1.0.1_TMC2225.rar ,
unrar’ed the file, and copied over the file Ender-3 V2_32bit_4.2.7_Firmware_Marlin-2.0.1_V1.0.1_TMC2225.bin – again – nothing on the display.
I’m really PO’ed about this whole mess. Get a new unit, hardly print, and then start having these issues in this thread. About the same cost to get a new board as to drive the 5.5 hour round trip to return the unit – so got the board. Now don’t know if board is bad, I did something wrong (not likely, but…) or just what the issue is.
Geez – this forum is screwed – can’t get a copy of the link, using anything they’ve got. Nuts. Its:
“ttps://secureservercdn.net/192.169.223.13/i6h.45f.myftpupload.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/10/Ender-3-V2_32bit_4.2.7_Firmware_Marlin-2.0.1_V1.0.1_TMC2225.rar”
And yes – it’s screwed up so it could be posted. https://blahblahblah
@demon85 doubt that – pics taken, items marked, and wires removed basically one at a time and place on the new board in correct place, polarity, etc.
Ok – we’ll see. FINALLY updated. Had to format card twice and copy the .bin over. But it now seems to have updated, and I’ve got a screen back.
Ok – we’ll see. FINALLY updated. Had to format card twice and copy the .bin over. But it now seems to have updated, and I’ve got a screen back.
And now making my first print with the 4.2.7 board and updated firmware. After my first test print, I’m going to make some higher feet like https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4603075 to get it higher off the table, and then see about getting another fan under it to move some more air.
Then see about modifying the bottom plate of the mobo housing, and getting an external fan pushing air directly into the unit, and see about some more “exhaust” holes to keep things cooler.
Glad you got it working. I didn’t bother the cooling with the new 4.2.7.. I totally closed it as it was by default, no extra fans. Yesterday I did a 9 hour print, no issues 🙂
The folks over at 123-3d.nl have listed some instructions to edit some settings, which would solve the issue according to them. But this sounds more like a workaround than a fix to me, should I ask them if I can order a printer with the 4.2.7 board instead of the 4.2.2 board?
The voltage adjustments is a 123-3D solution, not a Creality one (they don’t come with a solution)
So you have to buy the 4.2.7 board yourself or hope the settings will work.
Guess they tested them well.
Suggested settings:
X-As: 1,22 volt
Y-As: 1,25 volt
Z-As: 1,22 volt
E-As: 1,39 voltAnd make sure all axis run frictionless in the v-slots.
If someone has 4.2.2 and some time for a test…. 😉
Would changing Z and E have any effect on the layer shifting problem? Why not just X and Y?
I will try these soon.
I have no idea, they recommended this and the start G-Code that I listed a few posts after. Haven’t had an issue so far
