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Layer Shift, Ender 3 V2

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Praetorian
(@praetorian)
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@theprimarch nice to know, but I saw somebody wrote that the v4.2.7 board makes the steppers make more noise, is that true?


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P.E.T.A.R
(@p-e-t-a-r)
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Posted by: @3dmaxmaster

Here is my happy ending story...

I bought a refurbished ender3v2 with the 4.2.2 board in December 2020 on Amazon for about $215. After 1month, I noticed the layer shifts more obviously. I called Amazon Customer Service and explained about the problem since they are the 'seller' (not comgrow) and they agreed to refund me about small % of the purchase price (roughly $40, which I used to get a new 4.2.7 board. I installed the board(firmware was 1.0.1 btw). Afterwards, no more layer shifts on the factory setup so far (last 2 days) on prints that normally will be full of shifts. No need extra cooling or leaving the top of the motherboard open anymore.  No more thunk noises either.  See picture.

Thus, upgrade if you can get a total awesome deal... for free. For $40, it worth it too.

see my before (left) and after (right) examples.

 

Can you share the gcode perhaps?

Got my new E3V2 past week and checking the board... it's a 4.2.2.

Do we know if all 4.2.2 boards are affected?

This post was modified 1 year ago by P.E.T.A.R

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3nderUser
(@3nderuser)
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Posted by: @p-e-t-a-r
Posted by: @3dmaxmaster

Here is my happy ending story...

I bought a refurbished ender3v2 with the 4.2.2 board in December 2020 on Amazon for about $215. After 1month, I noticed the layer shifts more obviously. I called Amazon Customer Service and explained about the problem since they are the 'seller' (not comgrow) and they agreed to refund me about small % of the purchase price (roughly $40, which I used to get a new 4.2.7 board. I installed the board(firmware was 1.0.1 btw). Afterwards, no more layer shifts on the factory setup so far (last 2 days) on prints that normally will be full of shifts. No need extra cooling or leaving the top of the motherboard open anymore.  No more thunk noises either.  See picture.

Thus, upgrade if you can get a total awesome deal... for free. For $40, it worth it too.

see my before (left) and after (right) examples.

 

Can you share the gcode perhaps?

Got my new E3V2 past week and checking the board... it's a 4.2.2.

Do we know if all 4.2.2 boards are affected?

This Gcode always went wrong in first layers with my bad 4.2.2 board:

 


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tannenba
(@tannenba)
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@3nderuser Looks good.  I have the layer shift problem bad when trying to print a case for an electronics project, but I just printed a 5x5 vertical lithophane (10 hr) perfectly.  I have a 4.2.7 mainboard and going to install tomorrow and try the case again.  If all goes well, I'll try to get a refund for the 4.2.7 mainboard or an extra under warranty.  I bought it on Amazon thru Sainsmart.

 

Update:  Installed the 4.2.7 mainboard, loaded Marlin's firmware and reprinted the case that got layer shifted before...Came out beautiful!  Success!  Trying the other case and then I'll contact Sainsmart or Amazon.

This post was modified 1 year ago 2 times by tannenba

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twoface
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Hallo.

So, overheating of the stepper motor drivers seems to be the root cause of the layershift, is that right? 

Maybe improving the heat dissipation on the backside of the mainboard could help.

Putting four square 5mm thick heatpads on the backside where the stepper motor drivers are located, would create a thermal connenction to the metal case of the printer and maybe help to get rid of the overheating problem.

Just my thoughts. 

What do you guys think?

 


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Piet
 Piet
(@piet)
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Hello, hopefully one can help me with my new 3 Ender V2 problem, thx in advance!

 

Printing small objects doesn't seem a problem, printing big objects (more than a couple of hours print) is giving problems. Example, after about 8 hours print i got Y-axis shift on about every new layer (see photo). I checked the mechanics of my new printer, seems all stable.  The first 5 mm in height was printing okay but then the Y shift problem started. 

Any help will be appreciated !  Kind regards, Piet


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3nderUser
(@3nderuser)
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Posted by: @piet

Hello, hopefully one can help me with my new 3 Ender V2 problem, thx in advance!

 

Printing small objects doesn't seem a problem, printing big objects (more than a couple of hours print) is giving problems. Example, after about 8 hours print i got Y-axis shift on about every new layer (see photo). I checked the mechanics of my new printer, seems all stable.  The first 5 mm in height was printing okay but then the Y shift problem started. 

Any help will be appreciated !  Kind regards, Piet

Fill in a service request and probably they will ship you a new motherboard.

https://www.creality.com/service-request

Till that time you can open top of motherboard enclosure and add some extra ventilation, that will reduce the layer shifts.

Of je kan contact opnemen met de zaak waar je de printer hebt gekocht, het ligt in ieder geval aan de besturingsprint.

 


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ThePrimarch
(@theprimarch)
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Posted by: @praetorian

@theprimarch nice to know, but I saw somebody wrote that the v4.2.7 board makes the steppers make more noise, is that true?

@praetorian Perhaps a bit? Not very much in any case.


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hantuuk
(@hantuuk)
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@3nderuser Hiya, I got an Ender 5 Pro with a 1.1.5 board that has the layer shift problem. I tried everything, ie increased ventilation, checked the belts, even changed the Vref. Nothing worked. The only other thing which I didn't try was to update the software. I wasn't even going to try flashing the board. Anyway, I managed to get my refund from my reseller who were very understanding.

I'll now wait until they sell the ender 5 pro with a 4.2.7 board.

The other thing I did was to put in a ticket on the creality website. They will ask a lot of questions, but in the end they said they will ship out a 4.2.7 board. Not sure if I will actually get it. In any case I don't have a printer to use it on.... Ha ha...

Creality Ender 5 Pro


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3nderUser
(@3nderuser)
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Posted by: @hantuuk

I'll now wait until they sell the ender 5 pro with a 4.2.7 board.

The other thing I did was to put in a ticket on the creality website. They will ask a lot of questions, but in the end they said they will ship out a 4.2.7 board. Not sure if I will actually get it. In any case I don't have a printer to use it on.... Ha ha...

Yeah lol..  Almost get impression it's not real people, but a bot answering the emails at customer service  hh..
First time they has sent me another faulty 4.2.2 board.. Then I bought a 4.2.7 because didn't want to wait again for weeks to solve the problem.
I wrote them the problem was solved by the purchased 4.2.7 board, hoping to get a refund. Then I got the same questions again about checking things and to make video. I responded few times and got reactions as if they didn't even read.
At the end I got this message:

Dear Customer

thank you for your reply,

We have received your information and notified the relevant personnel to arrange for you,

It takes about 15 days to mail the parts. please wait patiently.

Thank you for your support.

Exactly the same reaction as first time..
So maybe they gonna ship another board wich I don't even need anymore.

Maybe shipping out motherboards is cheaper than a manned service department haha.


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Piet
 Piet
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@3nderuser

Thank you very much for reply and advice, we contacted Creality already. Kind regards, Piet


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EddoWagt
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The folks over at 123-3d.nl have listed some instructions to edit some settings, which would solve the issue according to them. But this sounds more like a workaround than a fix to me, should I ask them if I can order a printer with the 4.2.7 board instead of the 4.2.2 board?


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sakom
(@sakom)
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I've ordered the printer on 11th November directly from Creality's official store on Aliexpress.

So far I haven't experienced any layer shifting, but did some mods back in November before even doing a test print:

1. Removed the paint around all the screws connecting the power supply to the metal casing. This ensures the unit is properly grounded.
2. Changed all the fans to original Sunon (more reliable and much quieter).
3. Rewired the hotend and board cooling fans so that both are only running when the hotend temperature exceeds 60 degrees (controlled by another thermistor in the heating block and a custom circuit).
4. Added more solder to the thermal vias to make sure the stepper drivers are actually soldered properly. [link]
5. Soldered 2.5mm² copper wire to each stepper's thermal pad (this helps more with heat spreading rather than heat sinking). [link]
6.Added a thick silicone thermal pad and an aluminium heatspreader [link] which are firmly pressed against the metal chassis (there is only 4.5mm clearance between the bottom of the PCB and the metal casing). Even though the metal casing is painted (thus conducts heat poorly), the area directly above the PCB gets noticeably warmer at the 2 contact points during printing.
7. Printed a simple fan shroud for the board cooling fan which ensures cooler air intake. [link]

 

Since I recently saw a post on reddit claiming that the layer shift is caused by stock 4.2.2 boards shipped with clone stepper drivers, I removed one of the heatsinks and found that the drivers are indeed original Trinamic. [link]

 

Main reasons the hardware design is prone to overheating:

1. The board's cooling fan is wired in parallel to the part cooling fan, which means the board has no active cooling unless the part cooling fan is running.

2. The fan intake is on the bottom, where also the exhaust hot air is displaced. This results in the fan recirculating hot air, which over time heats the board even more.

3. The stepper drivers may not be soldered properly to the board or the board's thermal mass is too small.

 

I would speculate that the 4.2.7 replacement board fixes the layer shifting because the TMC2225 drivers are actually TMC2208 but in a larger physical package and have better heat conductivity making them more resilient to overheating.

This post was modified 1 year ago by sakom

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Ivo-tje
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Posted by: @eddowagt

The folks over at 123-3d.nl have listed some instructions to edit some settings, which would solve the issue according to them. But this sounds more like a workaround than a fix to me, should I ask them if I can order a printer with the 4.2.7 board instead of the 4.2.2 board?

The voltage adjustments is a 123-3D solution, not a Creality one (they don't come with a solution)

So you have to buy the 4.2.7 board yourself or hope the settings will work.

Guess they tested them well.

 

Suggested settings:

X-As: 1,22 volt
Y-As: 1,25 volt
Z-As: 1,22 volt
E-As: 1,39 volt

And make sure all axis run frictionless in the v-slots.

 

If someone has 4.2.2 and some time for a test.... 😉


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EddoWagt
(@eddowagt)
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@ivo-tje

Thanks, so it's best to order it, try that out and if I still get issues, request another board from creality? 123-3d listed some additional things to add in the GCode aswell, but I'm not really sure what those things do


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