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davethomaspilot
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I've had the printer for less than a week.   Printed a few things, then upgraded the firmware in preparation for installing BLTouch.

Upgrade of the display and board went with no issues.  It printed a few minutes and I tried to stop the print.  The print continued -- it would not stop.

A minute or two later, the printer shut down completely.  No display, no fans running.  Now it won't power back up.

Checked that 24V is on the main board.  I watched the video for troubleshooting a board, but I don't think that was for 4.2.2.  Anyway, there is 0 volts on the fan outputs, but maybe that's because the fans aren't normally turned on until needed on the 4.2.2 board?

Looking for any help I can get.  I'm comfortable troubleshooting (I'm an EE with many years experience designing pcbs) the board or even fixing it, if that can get me back and going faster.

I sent email too--it's Christmas day, so I'm not surprised that there wasn't an immediate response.  But, I'm not sure how to proceed.  Any suggestions would be welcome!


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davethomaspilot
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Should have mentioned that I checked the fuse on the board--it is NOT blown.

Also , while powered up, I heard a crack and saw a flash on the board.  But, I can't see any sign of charring or burning on the board, nor any cracked SMT components.


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Eli liu
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@davethomaspilot It printed a few minutes and I tried to stop the print.  The print continued -- it would not stop.

this is normal since the printer will stop until it finishes its current commands( couple lines of codes).

did you install a BL touch and flash the BL touch firmware at the beginning or just the firmware?

the Fan inside the controller and at the front cover should run once the power is up. 

I heard a crack and saw a flash on the board.

I don't know why it happens after you flashed the new firmware. But I guess the mainboard is damaged somehow, according to your description. 

Connect the board to a PC and see if you can read it.


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davethomaspilot
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I did not install the BLtouch yet.  I just updated the firmware.  Was going to make additional firmware mods for it, but first was printing a connector housing.

Before the catastrophic failure, I did several bed levelling prints.  I was going to compare best I could do without BLTouch, then with BLTouch.

I know the typical delay from cancelling the print--it was much longer than that when the printer shut down.  

No fans run, but I confirm 24V makes it to the motherboard.  Motherboard fuse is ok.  I'm pretty much convinced the board failed.

"Connect the board to a PC and see if you can read it."

Can you provide some detail on how to do that?  


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davethomaspilot
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The crack/flash I observed was several power cycle attempts after the printer first failed.  When I turned on power to measure the 24V on the board, I saw/heard the flash/crack.   Doesn't happen every time a turn on power, but did occur more than once.


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Eli liu
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@davethomaspilot  one example


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davethomaspilot
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Thanks for the replies!

 

When I plugged the printer USB cable into the pc, the device was recognized!  The display is working--it has two numbers that counted to 21.

 

But, it seems I need a driver for the USB to serial chip that's on the Ender V2.  Windows couldn't find one automatically.  I'll have to research what driver is needed, but I wanted to report this since maybe it's enough to indicate what should be done next.


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davethomaspilot
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If the Ender 3 V2 is not turned on, the display comes on when I plug USB and looks normal.  I can then turn power on the printer and the display still looks good.

But, if I first turn on the printer before I plug in the USB cable, the display doesn't come up.  It looks like it's starting to power on, then just recycles continuously.

Does this indicated the 5 volt regulator on the board is bad?

... Still researching a Windows 10 driver for the USB to serial 


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davethomaspilot
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Installed the CH340 USB to serial driver, and now I can connect in Pronerface.  But when I push the home buttong I get this in the command window:

Connecting...
Printer is now online.
echo:busy: processing
echo:busy: processing
echo:busy: processing
echo:busy: processing
Error:Printer halted. kill() called!
[ERROR] Error:Printer halted. kill() called!

Also, if I unplug the USB cable, the printer display goes dark.

And, the printer display still stays dark if I power on the printer without the USB cable plugged into the pc.

So, I think this means the 5 volt logic on the board is being powered by the USB 5 volts, so maybe the 5V regulator on the board is bad.

What's the next step?  Should I just get a replacement board?  It should be under warranty since I just bought the machine last week.   I have SMT rework tools and don't mind replacing some parts, if that makes sense.  

 


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davethomaspilot
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Amazon will send me a replacement unit.  Should I do this?  

Or, can we can conclude the issue is with the main board and Creality send me a new main board only?

Or, is there other testing I should do to isolate the problem?

Is this the right place to ask these questions?


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davethomaspilot
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Amazon sent a replacement, an entire new Ender 3 V2.  I just swapped motherboards, used the same Marlin firmware I was using in the original E3 V2, and all is now good.

I wish I could have gotten more replies--I was hoping to isolate the issue to root cause on the mainboard and maybe help improve Creality's design or quality control to make similar issues less likely to occur in the future.  Seems like it would have cost someone less to simply send a new board rather than a whole new printer.  Not sure this is the right place to pursue that course of action, nor where is a better place.

But, I'm up and going again.


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Eli liu
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@davethomaspilot Thanks for your feedback and kind considerations. Creality is growing and growing so fast. There are some insufficient in quality control and after-sale service. Thanks again to everyone for supporting each other and let's hope for the best. 


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Nikko
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Hi Dave, I just "happily" discovered this thread and wanted to notice that you're not the only one in this situation.

In my case it happened after 3 months of use of my Ender 3 V2. I installed a BL Touch after 1 month, it worked, then I started to get issue with my ABL so I disconnected the BL touch and keep printing without ABL (presuming the issue was coming from my BL touch hardware). But I still had some failed prints without clear explanations to me, until one night (around Christmas as well :P) a very long print failed in the middle of the night without any obvious reason to me. When I powered it on and off again, it seemed clear that there was a problem from the motherboard and/or screen, but the thermistor fan was still working, while the screen was staying dark.

I succeed to make it work by powering it from the external USB port which make me think the problem comes from the 5v regulator that powers the screen and other (like the little blue led of the motherboard).

Now I still don't know whether I'll have to buy a new MB (I don't think I'm able to fix it with this kind of soldering...) or if Banggood can do anything helpful to me with the warranty.... (or Creality). 


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davethomaspilot
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Hi Nikko.  I appreciate you sharing your experience.

It's a little different than mine.  After my E3 V2, failed, everything was dead.  No fans turning, no fans, nothing.  

Connecting the USB port to my pc made the display start working and while I could connect using Pronterface, I couldn't do any printing.

I had BLTouch in hand, ready to install, but I hadn't done it yet when the printer failed mid print.  When I got the replacement Ender 3 V2, I swapped boards, loaded the same Marlin (bugfix 2.0) firmware  I'd been using in the failed board,  and everything worked fine.  Then I added the hardware for BLTouch and configured Marlin source to support it.  Everything was working.

I've been successfully printing nearly 24 hours a day for a week now, but this morning auto home and ABL stopped working.  BLTouch was flashing 5 times, pause, flash 5 times...

I was pretty sure the issue was with the connector from the BLTouch cable to the motherboard.  BLTouch didn't come with the right connector.  While hot melt glue can keep the whole connector from moving much, the contacts didn't really feel tight on the pins--glue on the housing doesn't help that.  Sure, the housing doesn't move, but if the pins are tight in the contacts, the connector will not be reliable.

I'd ordered JST cables early in the week, fully expecting the BLTouch to quit working due to non reliable connector at some point.  I just now finished wiring the new JST cable/connector assembly to the motherboard end of the BLTouch cable.  Now everything's working again.

When I was waiting for support on this website, I ordered a Bigtree SKR mini V2.  Plan B was to try that motherboard, though it is not officially supported by Marlin.  There are some threads that detail how to configure Marlin for E3 V2.  I made the changes and got everything to compile, but when Amazon was so great and said they'd send me another E3, I decided to try swapping the motherboard from it first. 

So, I have the SKR board in hand if this Creality board fails. 

If you can't get a board replacement under warranty, I suggest trying the SKR board.  But, I don't know how you even going about requesting a replacement under warranty with Creality.  I'm glad I bought through Amazon.  Their quick suggestion to send and entire replacement printer was amazing.

Good luck!

 

 

 

 

 

This post was modified 3 months ago by davethomaspilot

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tundrwd
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@davethomaspilot

 

Ok - I don't have a BL touch, not sure if I'll get one, but I suspect the problem is that you installed the firmware WITHOUT installing the hardware (the BL Touch).  So the firmware is trying to do something that it can't do - and getting no sensory input.  It's also probably putting "juice" to the BL Touch connection on the mainboard (that might be the crack you heard), to energize the BL Touch, etc.

I'd suspect (but not proven) your entire issue was that you put the firmware in - but no hardware.  Every video I've seen - hardware is always installed first, then the firmware.


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