Successful prints = 0
guys I seriously need help here. I.m new to this and it’s a steep learning curve for me. I have an Ender 3 v2, v4.2.2 motherboard, marlin 2.0.1, glass bed covered with blue tape. I’ve added bltouch (updated the software with v1.1.1 (without adapter board)). Before I added bltouch I got a couple of decent prints, but haven’t had one since. Either I get so much stringing that the print is useless, or it doesn’t adhere to the build plate, or both.
Creality’s cura slicer doesn’t run after I installed it (Win 10 Home, build 19042.867) so I’ve been using Cura downloaded from it’s site. I also tried MatterControl. I’ve set up a 3 v2 profile based on the 3 profile in Cura, tweaked with suggestions from several sources (reddit, all3dp, etc).
I’m using hatchbox pla, tried some amazon basics pla, and have tried settings in the range nozzle=195-205C, bed=55-60C, print speed 80-100%, Z axis offset 2.2-2.45mm. Attached is a pic of the latest mess.
Any help would be seriously appreciated.
Stringing is best managed with the extraction settings in the ‘Travel’ sector of Cura. I’m running a regular Ender 3 and just finished dialing in my own settings to get rid of stringing after a fairly substantial rebuild.
For a bowden tube style machine like the Ender your retraction distance should be around 6-10mm and the retraction speed should be on the low side. I’m currently using 18 and having good success with that.
Another fix for stringing is temperature. If you run too hot you’ll get more stringing. Try lowering the hot end temp a bit.
As to bed adhesion – the first thing to do is check your leveling. Bad adhesion is often caused by being too far from the build plate. If your blue tape isn’t sticking well to the glass that may also be an issue. I usually don’t use blue tape with glass beds myself. You shouldn’t really need it with PLA. Have you tried the ‘regular’ bed that came with the printer? Sometimes those regular build surfaces have better adhesion than glass.
Bed temp may also be an issue and you may want to try a skirt or raft depending on the nature of your part.
Hope this helps some!
Really appreciate the advice my friend. I’m going to try the retraction parameters you use, and work out from there. Can I assume that the nozzle and bed temps set in Cura override the printer settings (set under Control on my machine)?
Regarding bed adhesion, the blue tape over glass sticks fine. It’s the print that won’t adhere to the tape sometimes. I’ve also tried applying a glue stick but that only helps a bit. I will try lowering the nozzle temp as you suggest.
I’m printing an xyz calibration cube right now at nozzle = 200C, bed = 60C and it seems to be printing very well.
Again, I really appreciate your advice senekal.
Glad to be a bit of help! I actually struggled a bit to find good advice on retraction settings over (literally) the last few days. Finally figured it out largely through trial and error so figured best to share.
The settings you put into Cura create a ‘G-code’ file which is what tells your printer what to do. So yes, the settings in Cura will override the base settings on your printer (this is by design). The G-code tells the machine everything about the print. The temperatures, when and if they change, where to move the print head, how much filament to deploy, what speeds to run the fans at (some materials want different settings for the fan which cools the nozzle for example) etc.
This is the item I used for my retraction testing. You may find it useful.
I think there might be an issue with my retraction test…..
See attached pic…..
Looks more like issue with bed adhesion.
Remove that stupid tape. Clean your bed thoroughly with dish soap and rinse with hot water so it’s absolutely clean.
Use 75 bed temperature and 210 nozzle for first layer. Second layer you can lower that to 65 / 205.
I’ll give this a shot later today, let you know how it works. Thanks, i appreciate the advice.