Ender 3 V2 Multiple Items
All, any help is greatly appreciated! We own an Ender 3 V2 and are having issues with printing snowflake #3 and it when I level the bed it seems to undo after 1 print.
!! Ender 3 V2 with no mods !!
1. Snowflake #3 is from the snow flake machine on thingiverse.
1a. I've attached the images and video for the snowflake #3.
2. I've tried using the "Easy bed Leveling" from thingiverse and printed a temp tower without any issues.
2a. After the temp tower I hit "Auto Home" and wanted to verify the level which was off.
* Should it be possible to auto home and the bed still be level? Or am I doing something incorrectly by using that? Or?
We're about to loose our minds, this doesn't make sense with all the level and print pictures we're seeing.
Here's my list for bed adhesion problems. I won't go too in depth on each since there are plenty of better resources, you often just need the right keywords to go searching with. I also don't have quite the same setup, but I'll share my methods anyway in case they're helpful. I'm not very familiar with the Auto Home or Easy Bed Leveling sequences.
1) Z offset. Print a small part in the center of the bed. I like to see the lines squishing into each other, but not causing too much 'elephants foot' around the outside of the part.
2) Bed leveling. There are plenty of methods, I use a BLTouch to probe the bed and give me a heat map via Octopi's Bed Visualizer plugin. Without a probe, I'd be printing small squares in each corner and adjusting until the 'squish' looks the same, or using a go/no-go height gauge under the nozzle in each corner. The bed level should stay pretty consistent between prints. I can usually go a week or two of continuous printing without having to re-level my bed. I always re-home the Z axis before running a bed level sequence btw.
If your bed level is actually changing between prints, you have mechanical issues. V-wheels that are too loose or too tight can both cause irregularities while leveling and printing. Check every axis and adjust eccentric nuts as needed. I shoot for the point where it's difficult, but still possible to spin the V wheels by hand without moving the bed or extruder. You also need enough compression on the bed springs to keeping pressure on the adjustment knobs. Springs too loose, and your adjustment knobs can rattle loose during the print.
3) Bed and extruder temps. This is probably not your issue. Find settings that have worked for others on your material and leave it alone. I've wasted a lot of time trying different temps when the problem was elsewhere. I print with PLA Pro from 3D fuel, I print at 230/60. I haven't printed standard PLA in a while but I want to say I was in the 205-215/50-55 range.
4) Bed Surfacing. This is usually why my prints stop sticking. Bed surfaces need to cleaned regularly with rubbing alcohol (which you've probably already done), and resurfaced occasionally with Acetone and a Scotch Brite scouring pad. Bed surfaces oxidize over time and the alcohol isn't enough to resurface it. I pour a small amount of acetone directly onto the bed (probably a teaspoon or two), and work it around with the pad until it evaporates. I prefer a cold bed, otherwise you don't have much working time. Follow up with an alcohol wipe-down.
Last note: it's pretty easy to identify whether your issue is bed leveling vs surface quality. Check the density of your first layer 'squish'. If the areas curling up have larger gaps between lines (less squish), then you have a leveling problem; the nozzle is too far from the bed in that region. However, if the squish pattern is similar to other areas that are still sticking, you have a surfacing problem. The nozzle height is fine, the material just doesn't have a good surface to stick to.