@capn-stretch

I urge you to click (Copy and paste) on this link https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html#intro

and spend sometime reading through each step on fine tuning your printer. This was and still is my bible for tuning 3d printers. It is simple and easy to follow.

Your particular issue and how to solve it is on the tab called ‘Extruder E-Steps calibration’

BTW there is LOADS of online stuff aimed at Creality printers and a fair few about the CR6. It is very simular to the Ender3 pro, so most things regarding the ender 3 pro will suffice for the CR6

Go to YT and type in CR6 or look at Teaching Tech numerous video’s (He’s the guy who made the guide above)

Remember we all started where you are now….’At The Beginning’ practice makes perfect, learn from your mistakes, don’t repeat them, watch and read loads.

Good luck and happy Printing

@wasp056 thanks for the response.I highly appreciate it.

After reading up that many users had blown up their USB ports on their PC’s due to the high voltage output on the mini usb on the CR6SE.

Is there a way to check if this is safe to do so ?

Just asking because I have a really high end 16″ MacBook Pro.

Looking forward to response.

@capn-stretch

Hi Yer, I have not experienced this at all, but to be on the safe side I use only USB DATA cables with no power wire.

Or if you can’t get hold of one, simply cut a section of the outer black/grey/white sheathing from a USB cable, careful not to damage any of the small internal wires, Find the wire that carries power, almost always the RED wire, Cut a section of the red wire out, insulate both ends of the red wire so it does not short out, then re-cover the outer sheathing with heat sink or insulating tape. 

I am using this method now to connect my CR6 to my Raspberry Pi which has my OctoPrint on. 

This way no Voltage at all will be transferred tween PC (Pi) and Printer. Power is NOT needed as each device has it’s own power supply.

Caveat to my Advice: messing with any sort of power cables is done at your own risk and the advice given above in this post does not hold me responsible for any loss/damage that may occur to any of your equipment. Legal stuff out of the way, it works for me and i have been using this for over 2 years now.

A less drastic way maybe is to cut a small strip of Electricians Insulating tape and cover the Power pin on the USB plug. That way you are not cutting wires. I used to do it this way, but after time pulling the USB plug in and out it dislodges the tape.

Or you can purchase this usb power blocker from https://www.th3dstudio.com/shop/

Good find @BHS Rob, but if you live in the UK then adding postage from USA, plus Tax is gonna push up the price quite a bit, also you can order this from Tindie.com, but for some reason the shop is on ‘Holiday’ WTF?? Even so it will be a fiver plus postage plus tax we are now out of the EU!!

If you are not confident enough to cut the ‘Red’ wire (Its always the Red Wire LOL), then this solution below is FREE, and does not involve cutting anything other than a tiny bit of Electrical Insulating Tape, and won’t involve invalidating any warranties or risking your PC/Laptop/Pi/PC/Laptop. 

This is a typical USB Connector. to prevent any power getting to the place you don’t want it to go….You simply cut a small stripe of tape and put it on the 5V pin of your USB plug.
Here you see an image of the standard USB A and B plugs

Pin 1 is the 5V pin which you’re going to cover with the tape.
Here two pictures if you feel unsure what to do:
Cut a stripe of tape and grab it with a pair of tweezers.

and put the tape on Pin 1 of your plug .Let the tape overlap a bit so it doesn’t move when the pins of the USB port connect to the pins of the plug.

Note the orientation of the USB (The white or black plastic bar is at the bottom, making pin 1 the right most pin as you look at the end of your USB.

What happens if you do it wrong?

Don’t worry – the worst that can happen is that you can’t connect to your printer anymore because you covered the wrong pin(s). Just remove the tape and put it on the right place and it will work again 

Hello Wasp056,

I would like to calibrate the extruder by changing the current value E steps/mm of CR-6SE

with Repetier-Host by connecting my pc to the printer with a USB cable.

I just used your solution with the small stripe of tape.

The hardware connection is done without any problem but no data connection is observed.

What is the procedure you used to control your CR-6 SE with your PC?

– All the steps

– Which driver to use (on the sd card provided with the printer) for Windows 10?

– Did you manage to change the settings of the CR-6SE in this way?

With your experience, a troubleshooting method can be used without fear and in reply to Creality

who gives no information about this.

Thank you in advance for sharing your experience

Hello capn stretch

To calibrate the CR-6-SE printer, a USB connection must be used and an application that to read and transmit data to the printer’s internal memory (EEPROM).

The menus of the CR-6-SE do not allow to read and correct the E.Step/mm value.

Below in 3 steps how I was able to calibrate my extruder of my printer.

1) The control of the micro USB plug of the CR-6-SE printer:

There are some reports of damage caused by electrical shorts on the CR-6-SE printer’s USB   connections, but they are quite rare.

For my CR-6-SE printer, the tape solution (above) does not work regarding data transfer.

Having contacted Creality (cs@creality.com), no answer so far from the Creality technical department! …. A shame! ….

On the other hand, my supplier sent me a protocol to check the Micro_USB plug of the CR-6-SE.

“The best way to check is to use a multimeter with one probe connected to the outer collar of the printer’s USB port and the other to the screw on the left side of the USB port, in the upper left corner.

If you do this, you should get a reading of 0V, but if your printer has a problem, it will read higher than 0V, perhaps 24V.”

To solve the problem, do-it-yourselfers can follow this video on the internet on how to check and solve the problem: https://youtu.be/Wme0JIgXV2g

Non-do-it-yourselfers will have to approach their after-sales service.

2)The connection :

Having connected my printer to my laptop computer without any problem with a usb cable, I installed the driver corresponding (Ch341ser.exe) to the version of the motherboard of my printer (V4.5.2).

To exchange data with the printer, I use the “Repetier-Host” application.

No problem encountered during the reading and the commands in gcode and the

corrections sent.

3) Calibration:

On the internet, there are several videos that explain more or less the same method to calibrate the printer. There is an embarrassment of riches!…

To summarize, you must :

1) Query the printer about the current value of E.Step/mm with the command gcode: M503.

2) Mark a mark on the filament in relation to the extruder.

3) Print 100mn of filament. For my printer, the M83 command is sent to assign the mode relative

    to the extruder followed by the command G1 E100 F100.

4) Measure the actual length extruded.

5) Calculate the new E.step/mm value. 

6) Replace the E.step/mm value with the M92 E xxx,xx command (replace the x’s with the

    new value).

7) Save the new value in EEPROM with the M500 command.

8) Query the printer about the new current value of E.Step/mm with the command : M503.

Sorry for the language, I use an internet translator!

Good luck and happy Printing

@wasp056

Hello, Do you have a store link to buy this usb data cable please?