3D Printing Nerd Fixed the Ender 7

Ender 7

Hello guys! Welcome back to Kevin’s Blog.

Last week, I have mentioned the 3D Printing Nerd channel in blog <<Ender 7 The real high-speed FDM printer>>. The interesting thing is that there is no successful print at the end of the live stream. That was a sad story.

However, this morning, I saw Joel post a new video that is <<I FIXED the Ender 7!>>

In this video, Joel talked about three main issue on Ender 7. Becically, I am agree with him but I would like put some my onwn ideas about Joel’s opionins.

Bed mechanism

The first thing is that the bed mechanism. As the pictures I attached below, there are four metal brackets for the hot bed.

The yellow one it connected with the lead screw and also connected with the hot bed bracket by 4 screws to offer the power for upward or downward.

The green one is the hot bed bracket. The bracket indicated in blue and red got one on each side. The blue, red and green brackets connected with each other by screws. so relatively speaking, they’re one piece bracket.

But the problem is that they are mounted by screws and the right blue and red brackets are separated from the left blue and red brackets. They are both mounted on the hotbed bracket (Green one). So if there is one part that significantly bends, that will be a start of a nightmare.

From a manufacturing point of view, it is very expensive to make these into a whole piece. So as Joel mentioned that, ok, it not the end of the world. Because it does not matter where are these metal brackets are, as long as you can level the bed against the plane that the nozzle is riding in X and Y.

The leveling nut

However sometimes when the brackets are tilted too far, the spring at bottom of the bed does not have enough travel to make the bed leveled. So it is very important to know how to adjust the leveling screw. This is the second part you have to understand for Ender 7.

When you find the springs do not have enough travel to leveling the bed, you have to consider adjusting the leveling nut to a right height to hit the sensor. And I think this may be the reason that Joel did not make the bed leveled to get a successful prints in live stream.

Change the design of the top frame?

The third issue Joel talked about is the most interesting part of the video. Joel violently dismantled the front section of the top frame of the printer as he thinks that piece is not needed and totally useless. The more important that is that piece gets in the way it obstructs the view and it makes it more difficult to level the bed.

Ender 7
Ender 7

Poor Ender 7! But I think the result is good. After Joel cut the front of the printer, it becomes easlier to see the printing process.

But from a manufacturing point of view, I can not agree with the opinion of Joel. I have been in the injection molding industry for some years, so I clearly know that for the top plastic frame, missing the front section will not save much cost for the mold. It can only save some 25% money for material for molding the plastic top. However, how many pieces would Creality need for Ender 7? I do not think it will be too much.

The most important thing is that we can cut the front section doee not mean we can injection it without the front section missing.

Here is a very similar part that has the same structure. Mold flow analysis said that the product deformation can be very serious on this kind of part that there is no support on one side. So, if the front is missing from the design, it may cause more serious quality problems on the plastic top. So during the manufacturing process, we can’t change the design as Joel suggested.

Of course, I am not saying that you can not cut it. You can cut if as what Joel did and I also think that is a great way to have better views. I am saying that Creality can not miss the front part when they molding the plastic top.

However, please remember that you better cut it when the top frame is installed on three bars!If the position of the screw hole is moved due to deformation, it will not be possible to install the top back.

This is my own opinion on this intersting video. Glad to see that Joel fixed the Ender 7 and thanks for reading this article.

Have a nice day and enjoy your printing!

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One response to “3D Printing Nerd Fixed the Ender 7”

  1. Hi Kevin,
    I’m really struggling with my Ender 7. It’s actually my second one, as the first failed spectacularly in a couple ways and was eventually replaced by Banggood- who provided VERY good sales support.
    Anyhow, I just could not get the bed to level properly manually. It seemed to be ok, but the prints would not stick at all, and eventually turned into spaghetti clusters that clogged the extruder assembly.
    With my replacement, I’ve installed a BLtouch. However, I cannot get the system to level the bed high enough. I followed the youtube video on firmware installation, and it all went fine- but now, even if I manage to level it to a paper sheet’s tolerance manually, in auto mode the BLtouch always leaves the nozzle far too high above the print surface.
    I’ve tried adjusting the z level screw, but I really don’t know what I’m doing. I can lower the top of the screw away from the sensor, but it seems to make no difference when I go to level the bed again. As well, the user interface is much less helpful than on my Ender 3. It will NOT allow me to use the ‘move’ function to raise the Z axis to a negative number at all.
    How the heck can I get the bed to the right place? Adjust the Z offset?
    Any ideas?